细胞外基质修复对人体皮肤抗皱紧致功效的研究
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许立博(1995.11-),男,河北秦皇岛人,硕士,助理工程师,主要从事化妆品的开发、检测工作

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R622

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Research on the Efficacy of Extracellular Matrix Repair in Anti-Wrinkle and Firming of Human Skin
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    摘要:

    目的 探究细胞外基质修复对人体皮肤抗皱紧致的功效。方法 于2024年9月-10月,选取北京地 区30名年龄在30~40岁的健康女性为研究对象,筛选棕榈酰三肽-5、水解人参皂草苷类及寡肽类物质作 为核心活性成分,设计含上述成分的乳液产品,从细胞实验、斑马鱼模型实验以及人体功效实验3个维度 对其抗皱紧致功效进行系统全面评估。结果 安全性测试显示,受试产品鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜实验刺激性评分 (IS)为0(无刺激性),且30名受试者斑贴实验均无不良反应;细胞实验中,与对照组相比,加入产品 的实验组HFF-1细胞的糖胺聚糖(GAG)、弹性蛋白(ELN)、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白、Ⅲ型胶原蛋白、转化生长 因子(TGF-β)含量分别提升32.80%、60.64%、16.47%、20.79%、13.11%(P <0.05);斑马鱼实验中, 受试产品可使斑马鱼弹性蛋白相关基因(eln1)、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白相关基因(col1a1a)相对表达量分别提升 108.77%、20.61%( P<0.05);人体自评结果显示,30名受试者使用4周后,肌肤滋润感、紧致度、皱纹淡 化等6项评估指标均得到改善。结论 棕榈酰三肽-5、水解人参皂草苷类及寡肽类物质具有明确的抗皱紧 致功效,且安全性良好,可作为有效活性成分应用于抗皱化妆品的开发。

    Abstract:

    Objective To explore the efficacy of extracellular matrix repair in anti-wrinkle and firming of human skin. Methods From September to October 2024, 30 healthy women aged 30-40 years in Beijing were selected as the research subjects. Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, hydrolyzed ginsenosides and oligopeptides were screened as core active ingredients, and a lotion product containing the above ingredients was formulated. The anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy was systematically and comprehensively evaluated from three dimensions: cell experiment, zebrafish model experiment and human efficacy experiment. Results Safety tests showed that the irritation score (IS) of the tested product in the chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test was 0 (non-irritating), and there were no adverse reactions in the patch test of 30 subjects. In the cell experiment, compared with the control group, the contents of glycosaminoglycan (GAG), elastin (ELN), type Ⅰ collagen, type Ⅲ collagen and transforming growth factor (TGF-β) in HFF-1 cells of the experimental group with the product added were increased by 32.80%, 60.64%, 16.47%, 20.79% and 13.11%, respectively (P <0.05). In the zebrafish experiment, the tested product could increase the relative expression levels of zebrafish elastin-related gene (eln1) and type Ⅰ collagen-related gene (col1a1a) by 108.77% and 20.61%, respectively (P <0.05). Human self-assessment results showed that after 4 weeks of use by 30 subjects, six evaluation indicators including skin hydration, firmness and wrinkle reduction were improved. Conclusion Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, hydrolyzed ginsenosides and oligopeptides have definite anti-wrinkle and firming effects and good safety, and can be used as effective active ingredients in the development of anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

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许立博,高学伟,王 玥,等.细胞外基质修复对人体皮肤抗皱紧致功效的研究[J].医学美学美容,2025,34(16):56-60.

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  • 在线发布日期: 2025-09-24
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