曲酸衍生物在美容制剂中的应用进展
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陈宇欢(1995.1-),女,安徽池州人,本科,主管药师,主要从事药学诊疗及教学工作

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TQ921

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安徽省高等学校省级质量工程项目(编号:2023cxtd244)


Application Progress of Kojic Acid Derivatives in Cosmetic Preparations
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    摘要:

    曲酸是一种天然有机化合物,最早由日本学者从酿酒酵母中分离得到,因其具有较强的抑制酪 氨酸酶活性,减少黑色素合成,从而展现出优异的美白效果。近年来,随着化妆品行业对功能性成分需求 的增加,曲酸及其衍生物作为重要的美白成分广泛应用于各类护肤制剂中。但曲酸的应用受限于其较差的 稳定性和易氧化的性质,此外,过敏反应和皮肤刺激问题也时有发生。因此,改良曲酸的化学结构,以提 高其稳定性、渗透性和生物活性,成为研究的重点方向。目前,曲酸衍生物的研究主要通过分子修饰(如 酯化、盐化)提高其皮肤稳定性和生物利用度,从而增强美白、抗氧化和抗衰老等活性,这些衍生物在美 白、防紫外线损伤和抗炎方面表现出良好效果,具有广阔的应用前景。随着制剂技术的进步,未来其在皮 肤护理中的应用将更加广泛。本综述旨在系统分析曲酸及其衍生物在美容制剂中的应用进展,探讨其作用 机制、研究现状及面临的挑战,以期为相关领域的后续研究提供理论支持。

    Abstract:

    Kojic acid is a natural organic compound that was first isolated from Saccharomyces cerevisiae by Japanese scholars. Due to its strong ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce melanin synthesis, it exhibits excellent whitening effects. In recent years, with the increasing demand for functional ingredients in the cosmetics industry, kojic acid and its derivatives, as important whitening ingredients, have been widely used in various skin care preparations. However, the application of kojic acid is limited by its poor stability and easy oxidation properties. In addition, allergic reactions and skin irritation problems occur commonly. Therefore, modifying the chemical structure of kojic acid to improve its stability, permeability, and biological activity has become a key research direction. Currently, the research on kojic acid derivatives mainly focuses on improving their skin stability and bioavailability through molecular modification (such as esterification and salification), thereby enhancing their activities such as whitening, antioxidation and anti-aging. These derivatives have shown good effects in whitening, protection against ultraviolet damage, and anti-inflammation, and have broad application prospects. With the progress of preparation technology, their application in skin care will be more extensive in the future. This review aims to systematically analyze the application progress of kojic acid and its derivatives in cosmetic preparations, explore their action mechanisms, research status, and the challenges faced, and provide theoretical support for subsequent research in related fields.

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陈宇欢.曲酸衍生物在美容制剂中的应用进展[J].医学美学美容,2025,34(6):179-182.

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  • 在线发布日期: 2025-04-27
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